Why Is My Oven Not Heating Up?
Updated June 2026 · Electric & gas oven troubleshooting
Electric: Check the breaker first, then visually inspect the bake element for breaks or blisters. A burned-out element is the #1 cause ($150—$250). Gas: The igniter has weakened — it clicks but the oven never lights. Igniter replacement costs $150—$300. Both types can also fail due to a bad temperature sensor ($100—$200) or control board ($200—$450).
Electric Oven Causes
Circuit Breaker (240V)
Electric ovens, like electric dryers, run on 240 volts. If one leg of the double-pole breaker trips, the oven display and clock may work (120V) but the heating elements won't fire (requires full 240V). Check your breaker panel, flip the oven breaker fully OFF, then back ON.
Burned-Out Bake Element
The bake element is the coil at the bottom of the oven. When working, it glows bright red-orange. When it fails, you'll see visible damage — a break in the coil, blistering, dark spots, or a small hole where the element burned through. Visual check: Turn the oven to 350°F, wait 5 minutes, and look inside with the oven light on. If the element isn't glowing at all, or only glows in some sections, it's failed. Cost: $150—$250.
Gas Oven Causes
Weak or Failed Igniter
The igniter is the most commonly replaced part in gas ovens. It must reach a precise temperature (around 2,500°F) before the gas safety valve opens. As igniters age, they weaken — they glow but can't get hot enough to open the valve. You'll hear clicking (the gas valve trying to open) and smell a faint gas odor, but the oven never lights. Igniter replacement: $150—$300. This is a same-day repair for most models.
If you smell gas strongly when the oven is off, do not attempt any repair. Turn off the gas supply at the valve behind the oven (or at the meter), ventilate the room, and call your gas company. A faint gas odor when the oven is trying to light is normal — it's the brief moment before the igniter fires. A persistent strong gas smell when the oven is off indicates a gas leak.
Both Electric & Gas
Faulty Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor (a thin metal probe inside the oven, usually on the back wall) monitors the oven's internal temperature. When it fails, the control board can't regulate heat — the oven may not heat at all, heat to the wrong temperature, or cycle erratically. A technician tests the sensor's resistance with a multimeter (it should read about 1,100 ohms at room temperature). Cost: $100—$200.
Failed Control Board
The electronic control board manages heating cycles, temperature, timers, and self-clean. When it fails (often from power surges — common in Florida thunderstorm season), the oven may display error codes, not respond to inputs, or simply not heat. Cost: $200—$450. On older ovens (10+ years), this repair may not be worth it. Use the 50% rule.
Your oven has two elements: bake (bottom) and broil (top). If the oven won't bake but the broiler works fine, only the bake element has failed — and vice versa. Test both: set to Bake at 350°F and check if the bottom element glows. Then set to Broil and check if the top element glows. This tells the technician exactly which element to bring, saving time on the service call.
Oven Repair vs. Replace
Ovens and ranges are some of the most worth repairing appliances. A quality range lasts 15—20 years. Bake elements, igniters, and sensors are affordable repairs ($100—$300) that extend the oven's life by 5+ years. The only time replacement makes sense is when the control board fails on a 12+ year-old oven and the repair exceeds $400.
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